I recommend using a good quality MDF for a spoilboard, and do not try to cut a pocket in it either. All plywood materials, regardless of their quality are glued together, and will play havoc with a cutting edge. I would not advise trying to machine any type of pocket into any type of plywood, particle board, or hardboard to use as a spoil board. Deep cuts is not only had on the equipment, but releases a lot of tension at a time.
Step 4: Run the wood through a planner (or drum sander if you have one) taking very small pass cuts at a time.Then inspect to see if it has warped (which is very common when using Pine), as jointing releases a lot of tension in the wood. DO NOT try jointing both sides flat, as it will result in a wedge shape!!! Jeff was 100 percent correct! Let the wood sit for a minimum of 24 hours. Step 3: Run the wood over a Jointer to create 1 flat side, and 1 flat edge.Let the wood sit for a minimum of 24 hrs. Step 2: Cut the wood to a working size - longer and wider than needed … this is needed for proper machining.Step 1: Place the wood in your shop and let it climitize for a day or more… gets the wood to the same temperature and about the same humidity as your shop.Woodworker go through the following steps when working all types of wood: These steps can take days or even weeks to prep to wood. There is no set amount that this happens in, and varies from species to species… but Pine is the worse for this. Then the wood you just cut starts to bend, twist, bow, cup, etc. When you cut it, you have just released some of that energy/tension and restructured the remaining. You look over the board at the store and say this looks pretty nice, buy it and then when you get it home, cut it. Commercially sold Pine from the big box stores, and lumber yards is rushed through the mills without allowing the wood to stabilize, and then rushed through the kiln, tossed on a truck and delivered straight to the stores and lumber yards. That of start buying your router bits by the dozens.Īll wood contain “Stored Energy” in the form of tension. Also the sap in pine never dries or goes away… NEVER! That sap builds up in the cutters and causes excessive heat build up, dulls the cutting edge, and MUST be cleaned off the tool after EVERY use. Since it is soft, the sags (compresses) when struck but a cutting edge, which causes tearing, and dulling of the cutting edge. Pine is actually one of the hardest woods to work with. You said you’re using Pine because it is cheap, mentioning that the oak worked better. Those resins will not only dull the cutting edge very fast, but will nick the cutting edges, as well as cause excessive heat and burning a cutting edge. It’s nothing more than compressed wood chips/sawdust/powder held together with hard resins. NOT A GOOD IDEA!!! Particle board will kill whatever cutting bit you use on it very fast. You stated you are machining Particle Board flat to use as a spoil board. If you are planning to work with wood as your medium, then you need to learn as much about the various woods as possible. That’s why we all have turned to the forum is to get help. It doesn’t know why something isn’t turning out right. The CNC only knows what the program tells it. Wood being cut, egraved, carved by a small router guided by motors and a computer. It also means that you MUST learn about the medium you are working in. At least to a level to make the hobby enjoyable. Getting into a new hobby, or hobby business also means being reeducated, and educating yourself in all the topics needed. Each is able to give Great advice and recommendations. One of the things I love about the forums here is that they are made up of a mix of people some having fantastic backgrounds and knowledge of Electronics, Programming, 3D Printing, Woodworking, Metal Working, CNC backgrounds, etc. At that point, you’d want to use your planer to flatten the opposite face, but your edges are now square, and you can join multiple boards to make a wider board… But since the planer exerts a fair amount of force on the board, and can uncup a board just by its clamping force, it’s better to join one face first, getting it to a “truer” flat, before using that flat side as a reference for your planer to flatten the other face.Įdit: The usual use for the “squaring” function of a joiner is to flatten a face of the board, then put that flat face up on the fence, and get the edges square to the face. The two things a planer does is make one face flat, and makes that face parallel to the opposite face that it’s riding on (or the effective “face”). Technically, a joiner does two things, it makes one side flat, and it makes that flat side perpendicular to the side/edge riding the fence. If your joiner is in good working order, there’s no need to plane a joined side.
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